The
18th Century
By Douglas
Seaton, Local
Correspondent
During
the eighteenth century the Royal Burgh of North Berwick was separate from
the West Gate. The Royal Burgh comprised of two streets Quality Street,
(named Market Place or Crossgate) and the High Street. While the area
known as West Gate stretched westwards from the Clarty Burn which flowed
down Kays Wynd (Law Road) and across what is now Market Place to the sea.
Westgate ended at School Alley (Church Road) where the buildings there
gave way to open fields on the Glebe and West Links. The only building
standing in what is now Forth Street was the Dirleton Granary. There was
no road to the harbour, access was across the sands.
Beyond
Westgate there were two tracks, one leading south to the ruins of the
old Abbey (Abbey Road) and the other following what is now Pointgarry
Road leading through open ground to Whin Stone Quarry, the remains of
which can be traced on the West Links. From this point outside the town
boundary, the main road to Edinburgh, maintained each spring by ploughing,
rolling and harrowing, cut through the fields of Abbey Farm to Dirleton.
During
the 10th century the Earl's of Fife owned the land at North Berwick
and David, Earl of Fife established a ferry from North Berwick to Earlsferry
and built a hospice for the pilgrims travelling to St Andrews. Duncan,
4th Earl of Fife established a Cistercian nunnery around 1150, but there
was no mention of North Berwick in the mid 13th century Gough map. A
stone quay was constructed at the harbour but shortly after the Earl's
moved away to Threave (Kirkcudbright) and shipping from the port declined.
Throughout the 15th century, North Berwick made a useful contribution
to Custom's revenue before the port's trade shrunk to almost nothing
in 1500, and the Burgh tax revenue was negligible as late as 1535.
In
1434, the land was divided between the prioress and nuns of the North
Berwick Abbey and the burgesses of the town. The land granted to the
burgesses stretched along the East Links to the Millburn (Glenburn)
while the land to the south west was owned by the Abbey. Pont's map
of the Lothians in 1600 showed North Berwick as a small line of buildings
hugging the coastline. To the west was Ferry Gate and to the east the
Rhodes, a rocky outcrop with an anchorage in the bay.
In 1633, Patrick Home sold the estate of North Berwick to Sir William
Dick of Braid, a merchant and Provost of Edinburgh (1638-1640). He established
a beach fishing station in the town and funded a herring works in 1642.
In Tucker's account of the Scottish ports in 1655, no harbour was mentioned
at North Berwick. In 1694, the land was purchased by Sir Hew Dalrymple
who was created the first Baronet of North Berwick in 1697.
To the south was Berwick Law and the Mains Farm where a stable and byre
were built by James Hogg in 1727. The Glebe (Law Road to Nungate) was
granted to the Parish Kirk and the revenue was used to provide for the
poor and minister's stipend. The hill on the Glebe was mentioned in
the 16th century as 'Colles Procorum' (Swine Hills) and there was a
waterfall in the area now Brentwood Hill. To the east of the Royal Burgh
beyond the Council Chambers lay a warren of farm buildings, herders
cottages and byres, ending at a point now School Road. From there the
land opened into the town common or Coo's Green where the burgesses
grazed their cattle, while the feuars of the property outside the burgh
in Westgate were granted the right to graze their animals on the West
Links by Sir Hew Dalrymple.
The Dalrymple dynasty was a dominant force in the Scottish legal system
during the 18th century. Sir Hew Dalrymple, the 1st. Baronet of North
Berwick, was Lord President of the Court of Session from 1698 to 1737
and was the third son of James, 1st. Viscount Stair. His eldest son,
Sir Robert Dalrymple of Castleton, was a member of the Town Council
in 1727. His younger brother Hew was also a member of the Council and
appointed a Judge of the Court of Session in 1726, taking the title
of Lord Drummore. Sir James Dalrymple of Hailes, elected MP for the
Haddingtonshire Burghs in 1727 was the 2nd. Baronet of Newhailes, near
East Linton, his father being the fifth son of Viscount Stair. Sir Hew
Dalrymple, the 3rd. Baronet of North Berwick, assumed the name Hamilton
on inheriting the Barganay estate (Girvan) from his uncle John Hamilton.
The Dalrymples had representatives on the Town Council for over a century,
and in the year 1785-6 there were no less than four of them.
Royal
Burghs, essentially were privileged communities granted rights by the
king to enable them to develop internal and external trade. Within this
only the burgesses could carry on any kind of retail trade even in native
commodities.
A
person could become a burgess by paying a substantial fee to the town
council after proving they had served an apprenticeship in the town
and was a member of the burgh Trade Society. The burgesses were peasants
first, rising to become small merchants or craftsmen with the right
to market and the exclusive monopoly of trade and carrying on crafts
within the burgh. In the seventeenth century new burgesses were either
the sons or the son-in-law of existing burgesses.
Most of the burgesses time was taken up by prosecuting unprivileged
men who had been caught retailing foreign wares or sneaking on board
a ship with a bribe for the skipper and a parcel of petty goods to be
sold overseas. The result of these privileges held by a small clique
of interconnected families inevitably lead to corruption. Town Council
contracts went to the provosts' friends, the property of the burgh was
let at derisory rents to relatives, and burgess rights were sold for
private gain.
Some
of this exclusiveness the royal burghs had experienced waned after 1660,
when fairs and markets began to proliferate where there were no burghs
at all, and after 1672 the royal burghs lost practically the whole of
their monopoly of foreign commerce. But for a long period after 1690
the Scottish town councils remained notorious for their graft.
The
markets were held in Quality Street, where the trone or weights stood.
The trade was carried out by stances given off to the merchants by the
town council. In a table of customs prior to 1743 these entries appear
- Shoemaker is to pay maill (rent) for each daill (board) 3s (Scots);
Shopman or merchant's stand is to pay for each daill length 3s (Scots).
A board or stand was a table for displaying their wares.
The
burgesses had the right to elect new members and magistrates to the
town council, but none of this could happen without the silent approval
of the laird. During the eighteenth century the Dalrymple family had
complete control over all aspects of the day to day life of the community.
The
High Street had buildings irregular in appearance, with access to the
upper floor by an outside stair jutting on to the street. The 'lums'
were also built out from the building. The properties on the north side
of the High Street extended to the sea. In 1750, a proprietor on the
south side was allowed to enclose a space of ground in front of his
property by way of a railing. Thus encroachments were made which explains
the narrowness of the street today.
There
were two town officers who acted as police, sheriff officers, bellringers,
scavengers and labourers. One of the officers, John Dobie was allowed
for 'ringing the bell', three pound of candle during the winter season
of 1727. The salary for ringing the 'bigg' bell morning and evening
was £12 Scots. The officers uniforms were grey coats faced with
red, and hats with a cockade. In 1740 a town piper was appointed at
a salary of £5 Scots which was paid as his house rent. In 1754
the Council allowed him the privilege of making advertisements and the
crying of all roupings and things that were lost. The roupings was an
annual auction of certain privileges in the burgh. The highest bidder
gained the exclusive right to sell such items as sand from the beach,
seaweed, and the removal of dunghills from the streets.
In
March 1728 a bond for 1000 merks was granted for the erection of a new
Tolbooth. This refers to the present Council Chambers and shop below.
The older part of the building was probably erected at the end of the
16th century as the Tolbooth is mentioned as far back as 1638. The contract
to build the new Tolbooth was given to Archibald and John Brouns, masons
in North Berwick and Patrick Forgan mason at the Heugh. There is an
entry in the accounts 'To the masons a quart of ale, 4s' - a custom
known as a 'founding pint'. In the older part of the Tolbooth was two
prison cells, one on the ground floor entered from the High Street,
and lit by a slit in the north wall. The other directly above was accessed
by the stair to the Council room. In 1749 the shop below was occupied
as a dwelling house.
The
earliest surviving Town Council minute book commenced 5th September
1727. The previous minute books from 1639 -1727 are missing. The first
of many repairs to the harbour was carried out in 1728 by the Town Council.
In 1731 the Treasurer warned the neighbours and burgesses that each
house was to send a man able to carry out the clearing of the channel
out of the harbour, under penalty of half a merk Scots. The Council
wrote to Sir Hew Dalrymple as superior in Westgate, requesting that
the inhabitants there should also assist in clearing out sand in the
harbour.
In
1728, the bakehouses were thatched and the whins and other fuels stacked
close by were causing the neighbours to be 'holden in continual fear
and dread of fire'. The Magistrates instructed that all bakehouse roof's
should be constructed of slate or tiles and that no stacks of heather,
broom, whins and other fuels be kept adjacent to the bakehouse under
penalty of £10 Scots. The Council met with the bakers every quarter
to settle the price of wheat and each baker was requested to put his
name or mark on the bread as there had been complaints of light weight.
An increased number of 'debased persons' were causing a nuisance in
1739 by gathering daily in the street and on the common. In November
that year the Council ordered all persons who had cruives or huts towards
the street to pull them down. An entry in the burgh accounts refers
to at least eight cripples visiting the town in 1742. The Rhodes was
a dumping ground for vagrants as there frequently appears -' To carriage
of a cripple to the Rhodes 4 pence'. Sometimes they were taken to the
Heugh, while another entry reads, 'Carrying a blind woman from ye toun,
2 pence.' The Council ordered that no beggars could pass through the
town except on Wednesday (Market Day) and if the rules were disobeyed
the officers were to imprison all vagrants. This Act of Council was
published through the town by tuck of drum and copies thereof affixed
to the Cross and Kirk door. The same procedure was adopted in 1754 and
1773 showing that the nuisance had not abated.
There
was only meagre reference to the 1715 and 1745 Jacobite rebellions in
the Town Council minutes. But the following note discovered on the flyleaf
of an old leather book, chronicled by the Town Clerk at the time of
the '15 makes for interesting reading. ' 6th October 1715. The militia
went out to Haddington - 40 days pay each man.' '13th October 1715,
being Thursday about ane acloach in the morning the Highland men ran
a shoar att this harbour, and att Aberlady, Dirleton and Adam (Auldhame)
they war reckoned to be about three thousand under the command of Brigadeer
Mackointosh, my Lord Nairne, and two of the Duke of Athol's sones was
with them; they proclaimed the King here and then went to Haddington
and proclaimed him yr. and then went to Seton hous and upon the Saturday
went to Leith and upon the Sabbath day cam back to Seton hous and went
away upon the Tuesday to the North.'
An
entry in the accounts for 1714 -5 reads - 'To spent when Highlanders
were here £14.14s (for refreshments). These entries support the
inference that the town was on the side of the Old Pretender. The only
reference to the 1745 rebellion reads 'Boats coming into the harbour
are to be detained.' The accounts mention two pound candles to soldiers
keeping guard and billeting some soldiers. Bailie Lauder for ane express
to Edinburgh in the late troubles - 3s; for Mr Vetch himself going to
Dunbar for news at that time - 7s; To 4 men for watching the approach
of the Highlanders - 1s. 6d; and billeting some soldiers - 6d.
In
1779, the Scots born John Paul Jones, founder of the American navy,
mounted several raids on Scotland during the American War of Independence.
That year, he anchored off North Berwick much to the consternation of
the local inhabitants, but a storm blow up and his ship was forced further
out into the North Sea.
There were fourteen burgesses admitted between 1785 and 1816. Honorary
burgesses were admitted from all parts of Scotland and included, a Lord
Provost of Edinburgh, Andrew Fletcher of Saltoun, Lord Advocate Grant
of Prestongrange, Sir William Maxwell of Monrieth, Robert Blair, advocate,
afterwards Lord President of the Court of Session: merchants from Edinburgh,
Leith, Dundee, Aberdeen, Selkirk, Coldingham and one from Liverpool. |