Meet
the Ancestors (Updated)
By
Douglas Seaton, Local Correspondent
The main entrance to the Scottish Seabird Centre is accessed from the
Auld Kirk on the Anchor Green. During February 2000 while the new walkway
was being constructed, over thirty skeletons were discovered on the site
of the old St Andrew Kirk graveyard. The skeletons range from a new born
to an elderly woman and were in a remarkable state of preservation. One
burial was of a man who had been stabbed twice by a dagger, and a number
of skulls exhibited severe blows to the head which had healed over. Several
female burials were discovered adjacent to the church wall and it is
though this area was chosen because of its close proximity to the north
aisle dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Also two dogs were found buried together,
probably in a sack.
Archaeologist
Tom Addyman said this is the first carefully excavated cemetery population
on the east coast of Scotland and there have been
very few sites like this. What was most remarkable he said was the
density of the burials, all in single layers with over twenty packed
together.
The skeletons lay just beneath the surface, intercutting which made
it a complex archaeological project.
Early Christian burials were wrapped in linen shrouds with bronze
pins holding the shroud together. Many of these pins were found as
well as a carved bone pin. Later burials were placed in coffins, and
evidence of wood and rusted coffin nails were found along with their
skeleton contents.
The first kirk may have been built on Anchor Green by the second St
Baldred when he arrived in North Berwick in the 7th century from Lindisfarne.
By the 12th century the area around the town was owned by Duncan 4th
Earl of Fife who gave land for a nunnery and helped to pay for a larger
stone church on Anchor Green.
The facilities
included a hospice which served the needs of thousands of pilgrims
from all over the country who visited the kirk before crossing the
Forth of Forth to complete their journey to St Andrews in Fife. Pilgrims
were the tourists of their day and thanks to their trade, North Berwick
grew and prospered. By the 16th century, the kirk had been extended
to become an impressive place of worship.
The unearthed graves, sited on the eastern portion of the old graveyard
date from medieval times. It was not until the 17th century that the
church authorities insisted that all future burials should be on the
north side, as internments on the east and south were exposed to storm
damage and ground erosion. The last burial at the Auld Kirk was between
1649 -1656 when the church fell into ruin.
By the late 18th century the site of the church consisted of an irregular
low grassy mound, the only building visible was the south porch, the
remainder of the ruins had been progressively robbed for building material.
In 1951, the Town Council commissioned Dr. James Richardson, retired
Chief Inspector of Ancient Monuments, who resided at 7 Tantallon Terrace,
North Berwick to excavate the grassy mound.
During the archaeological survey, Dr. Richardson found two clay moulds
which were used to produce lead souvenir badges. One badge was decorated
with a depiction of St Andrew and would have been sewn onto the pilgrims
clothing by an attached loop. He also unearthed an upright slab bearing
a cross on both sides which may have been a marker to indicate the
church's right of sanctuary. This was important to protect those fleeing
their pursuers till the due process of law could be brought into effect.
The stone thought to dated from the 9th century is on display in the
North Berwick Museum.
Dr. Richardson also discovered a recumbent grave slab showing part
of a warrior in the rockery of the Manse garden at the Glebe. This
was identified as the gravestone of Lauder of the Bass and was returned
to the Auld Kirk. Lying at the entrance to the Lodge grounds was a
13th century broken cope gravestone and small cross-slab which were
also returned.
At the time of the 1951 excavation two walls were discovered from an
earlier church. The original Romanesque building with small stones
was constructed facing east to west, typical of the Celtic churches
of the period. In the 13th century the church was substantially enlarged
with a bell-tower added. The ruined walls exposed by Richardson give
an indication of the outline of the Auld Kirk, although a considerable
section on the east is missing after it fell into the sea following
a great storm in 1656. The bell was transferred to the church in Kirk
Ports in 1664 and is presently on display outside the St Andrew Blackadder
Church
The small tidal island encompassed the ground of the Auld Kirk and
graveyard, which gave way to a sandy cove where the esplanade now stands.
The harbour originally took the form of a breakwater built along the
crown of a ridge leading from the Plattcock Rocks. It was later enlarged
and the granary constructed on reclaimed land.
The only surviving building at the Auld Kirk is the white washed entrance
porch which was converted into a bothy in the 1850s when a fireplace
was constructed on the north wall. It was also used to store the life
saving rocket apparatus, with the explosives locked in the adjacent
building used by HM Coastguard. During this period, two large Coastguard
signal masts were erected on the Anchor Green, their base would have
been to a considerable depth suggesting the north portion of the burial
ground was not as extensive as previously documented.
In December 2004, a further excavation was carried out prior to the
construction of a tunnel linking the Seabird Centre to it's administration
building. At the top of the stairs leading from the Anchor Green to
the harbour, the remains of a wall was unearthed and a floor surface
consisting of stone slabs with a hard, mortar-like covering dating
from the 13th or 14th century.
Further
excavations beneath this level exposed an earlier building formed in
a hollow of the bedrock where a hearth made of red leck similar
to the rock quarried in the East Bay was discovered. Other finds included
fragments of medieval pottery and hundreds of edible winkle shells
which were also used for fishing bait. On the floor surface was a stone
with a carved two inch hole which may have secured the hinge of a door.
It is hoped that the burnt residue from the hearth will be carbon dated
to the 7th or 8th century supporting the archaeologist's opinion
that this former tidal island was an early Christian settlement used
by St Baldred as a sanctuary.
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