| By
Douglas Seaton, Local Correspondent
A
visit to North Berwick would not be complete without climbing to
the top of Berwick Law with its panoramic views of East Lothian
and beyond. To the west you can see Edinburgh Castle and the Forth
Bridge; to the north the Firth of Forth and Fife coastline; to the
east the ancient curtain walls of Tantallon Castle and the Lammermuir
Hills to the south.
Right: A pair of whale's
jawbones, which from time immemorial have been mounted on top
of Berwick Law. |

|
A visit to North
Berwick would not be complete without climbing to the top of Berwick
Law with its panoramic views of East Lothian and beyond. To the west
you can see Edinburgh Castle and the Forth Bridge; to the north the
Firth of Forth and Fife coastline; to the east the ancient curtain walls
of Tantallon Castle and the Lammermuir Hills to the south.
From the car park at the foot of Berwick Law follow the track round
the base for a short distance before starting the ascent. The path on
the south west leads to a plateau over the former quarry and then wynds
its way to the summit, 615 feet above sea level.
Berwick Law is composed
of igneous rock formed during the early carboniferous era. This area
was the site of many volcanic eruptions and the Law is the result of
the mouth of the volcano being choked with its own molten lava, forming
a plug when extinct. During the ice-age, Scotland was covered in a frozen
glacial blanket that rubbed and wore away the volcanic ash and soft
sedimentary layers. When the glacier receded it exposed the black rock
visible today.
On the south of Berwick Law there is evidence of at least eighteen hut
circles, rich middens and a field system dating from 2000 years ago.
There is also the remains of a defensive stone dyke and ramparts which
were not just military artifacts but show that farming and a peaceful
settlement was a feature here.
The stone building
at the summit was erected in 1803 as a signal station during the Napoleonic
Wars. Lieutenant Leyden was in command with a party of Naval Ratings
who were instructed to light a beacon on the sight of enemy forces which
would then start a chain of fires on high points across the country,
providing an early warning system. Adjacent to the ruined building is
the outline of a garden and beyond a concrete observation post used
during WW1 and WW2.
In 1803, when the
French invasion was expected and an alarm was to be given that the enemy
had landed, the North Berwick regiment of volunteers commanded by Captain
Robert Burns including those of Aberlady and Dirleton parishes were
ordered to assemble at North Berwick. They were to join and act with
other troops and proceed to occupy the strong position of Whitekirk
Hill and to oppose the landing of the French at Peffer Sands. The general
orders were given at West Barns camp, 19th November 1803, by Major General
George Don, who was one of Sir Ralph Abercrombie's officers at the battle
of Alexandria in 1801.
| Remember
to make your descent in the same westerly direction as you climbed
up. The cliffs on the north can be dangerous.
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The landmarks mentioned
above can be identified on the bronze and stone direction plaque (right)
erected at the summit in 1959 as a memorial to John Wallace Menzies,
Town Clerk from 1926 until his death in 1956. Adjacent are a pair of
whale's jawbones which were from time immemorial mounted on top of Berwick
Law. They were renewed in the 1850s by landowner Sir Hew Hamilton-Dalrymple
from an old Dunbar whale ship, and more recently replaced in 1936. It
is thought that North Berwick was a whaling port but no documentation
survives to substantiate this. The last bone-fire to be lit at the top
of Berwick Law was in 1953 to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth
II.
Looking to the west
you will notice a resevior surrounded by a plantation of trees at the
base of Berwick Law, this was the sourse of the town water supply in
the 1870s. The overflow which passes the car park becomes the Glen Burn
and enters the sea in Milsey Bay at the east links.
On the south is the remains of an old quarry which supplied the reddish-brown
stone used extensively during the nineteenth century and gives the town
a distinctive colour and style. The masonry on the buildings in Quality
Street are unique due to a vent of black carboniferous basaltic rock
found at the quarry and used to pin the reddish brown blocks in the
stonework. Another example of this can be seen on the building at 23-25
High Street. The quarry was closed in the 1950s, and re-opened in the
1960s especially to supplied the materials used to construct Wishart
Avenue.
Berwick Law is a
scheduled monument and as such is protected by law.
Metal detectors and damage is prohibited.
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